Making individual dress patterns and forms



Feb. 5, 1957 E. .CLOWARD ,7 03

MAKING INDIVIDUAL DRESS PATTERNS AND FORMS Filed Dec. 18, 1952 2Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR. K

ESTHER CLO WARD ATTORNEY Feb. 5, 1957 E. CLOWARD 2,780,003

MAKING INDIVIDUAL DRESS PATTERNS AND FORMS Filed Dec. 18, 1952 2Sheets-Sheet Z INVENTOR.

ESTHER CLOWARD ATTORNEY United States Patent MAKING INDIVIDUAL DRESSPATTERNS AND FORMS Esther Cloward, White Plains, N. Y.

Application December 18, 1952, Serial No. 326,631

Claims. (CI. 33-46) particular person has long been recognized. Throughthe use of such a form or pattern, a dressmaker can produce accuratelydesigned and fitted garments, tailor-made to the shape of an individual,without requiring that the individual herself be present for thenumerous fittings which are required. To the home dressmaker such a formis almost a necessary prerequisite if she is to make clothes for herselfwithout any outside assistance, since it is impossible for a person tomaintain proper posture and at the same time properly fit a garment toher body while that garment is in various stages of completion.

Despite these obvious desirable features, and despite the varioussuggestions which have been made in the past relative to form making,such forms have not been widely made or used. One reason for thisapparently anomalous situation resides in the fact that the making ofsuch dress patterns or forms, closely fitted to the body of a person soas to accurately conform to the contours thereof, has usually required asingle continuous forming operation. Once a person starts to make such aform, it has usually been necessary for her to continue with the makingof that form until it has been completed. Many hours are involved, and acontinuous operation over such a period of time is extremely fatiguing.In the second place, dress forms made according to the prior art havebeen difficult to remove from the body after they have been shaped, andtend to become distorted during such removal. In the third place,inexpensive forms made according to the prior art tend to becomedistorted in use, primarily at crucial sizing areas and peripheral edgesthereof, such as at the waistline, sides, hipline and neckline. In thefourth place, such dress forms are bulky and present a very real storageproblem, particularly to the home dressmaker, who does not usually haveavailable to her sufficient closet or storage space to permit stowingthe form in a place where it will be protected against damage ordistortion.

The present invention eliminates the above drawbacks and permits theformation of an accurately contoured dress pattern or form in a simple,convenient and inexpensive manner. A foundation or stiffening frameworkis provided which is universal in nature and can be no commodated to thesize and shape of almost any individual. This framework ensures thatwhen the pattern or form has been completed it will be reinforced overcritical areas thereof. In addition, and entirely independently of itsreinforcing function, the foundation framework is' so constructed as topermit removal of the form from the body at any stage of construction ofsaid form without disturbing the adjustment of the framework or thecontour of the partially or fully completed form,

2,780,003 Patented Feb. 5, 1957 said framework being readily replaceableon the body whenever desired in the same condition and position that itformerly assumed. As a result construction of an in dividual dresspattern or form may be carried out in intermittent and piecemeal fashionwithout detracting from the accuracy of the completed form. Thisdesirable result is achieved by providing the framework with a seamextending generally from top to bottom thereof, the seam edges beingsecured together by separable fasteners of any desired sort. Theframework is initially adjusted to shape and size with the separablefasteners engaged, and that adjustment, once made, remains fixedindependently of disengagement of the fasteners, thus permitting theform to be removed from the body whenever desired.

In order to facilitate storage of the dress form, that form ispreferably made in a plurality of sections separable from one anotherand nestable within one another when the form is removed from the body.To this end the framework is provided with a seam extending from side toside thereof, that seam being here shown located at the waistline, theseam edges of the framework, and hence of the finished form, beingdetachably fastened together by means of separable connectors of anysuitable type. The vertical seam separations in the individual sections,previously mentioned with respect to removability of the form from thebody between intermittent stages of construction thereof, serve whenopened to facilitate nesting of one completed form section within theother for storage purposes without distortion or damage to the form, andalso assist in placing an almost completed dress over the form.

As here specifically disclosed, the interior of the completed form isprovided with a series of separable connector elements adapted tocooperate with corresponding elements on a pedestal member receivedinside the form, so that the form may be supported in normal positionwhen in use. It is preferred that the pedestal member itself becollapsible for storage purposes, and it is thus here specificallydisclosed.

To the accomplishment of the above, and to such other objects as mayhereinafter appear, the present invention relates to the structure of aframework for an individually shaped dress pattern or form and to thestructure of a completed sectional dress pattern or form, as defined inthe following claims and as described in this specification takentogether with the accompanying drawings in which:

Fig. 1 is a front elevational view of the main framework, the varioussections of that framework being shown in separated condition;

Fig. 2 is a front elevational View of a supplemental framework sectiondesigned for reinforcing the armpit portions of the form;

Fig. 3 is a front elevational view of another supplemental frameworksection designed to reinforce the neckline of the form;

Fig. 4 is a three-quarter front perspective view illustrating theinitial step in the use of the above frameworks in the making of anindividual dress form, said step involving the covering of the body witha sheet of gauze or the like;

Fig. 5 is a similar perspective view illustrating the framework of Fig.l in position on the body;

Fig. 6 is a similar view but showing the supplemental frameworks ofFigs. 2 and 3 in place;

Fig. 7 is a view similar to Fig. 6 but taken partially from the rear ofthe figure;

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 6 but showing the form in an initialpreliminary stage of completion;

Fig. 9 is a three-quarter front perspective view of the completed form,showing the manner in which it is removed from the body;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view showing the completed form mounted on apedestal member; and

Fig. 11 is a composite view showing the completed form sectionstelescoped and the pedestal member disassembled and collapsed forstorage.

The main framework element, as shown in Fig. l, cludes a lower partwhich is formed in two sections 2 and 2 each consisting of awaist-encircling strip 4-, a vertical strip 6 and a hip-encircling strip8, the strips 4 and 8 being secured to opposite ends of the verticalstrips 6 so as to extend therefrom in the ame general direction andvertically spaced from one another. Each of the strips 4, 6 and 8 isflexible, so as to be accommodatable to the body of the user, but is ofan appreciably substantial nature so as to reinforce and strengthen thecompleted form or pattern. The strips 4 formed of a sheath It} ofcomparatively flimsy material such as kraft paper or the like withinwhich a stiffening strip 12 of cardboard or the like is received. Alsoreceived within the sheath 10 is a tape 14 along which conventionalseparable snap fastener elements it? are fastened, the sheath beingapertured at 18 to permit access to said elements 16. Tabs 26, which maybe integral with the sheath 16, extend therefrom inwardly with respectto the framework sections 2 and 2. The waist-encircling strips 4together are of a length somewhat less than the normal waist girthexpected, and those strips 4 are provided with adjustable lengthsecuring means in the form of strings or laces 22 adapted to be tiedtogether so as to cause the waist-encircling strips 4 to snuglyencompass the waist of the person whose form is being reproduced. Thestrings 22 are fastened to the strips 4 somewhat inwardly of the freeends thereof so as to provide greater latitude in the range of waistgirths which can be accommodated. For very small waists the ends of thestrips 4 may overlap, while for larger waists a gap will exist betweenthe ends of the strips 4, that gap being bridged by the strings 22 (SeeFig. 7).

The vertical strips 6 are defined by a sheath 24 within which anothertape 14 is received, the tapes 14 on opposite vertical-strips 6 havingcooperating separable snap fastener elements 16, the sheaths 24 beingapertured at 18 so as to permit access to said fastener elements. Thesheath 24 is preferably formed of a plurality of layers of kraft paperor the like for adding to its substan-tiality, and it is preferred thattabs 20 be provided on the strip 6 so as to project inwardly withrespect to the framework sections 2 and 2.

The hip-encircling strips 8, which extend from the vertical strips 6 inthe same general direction as and vertically spaced from thewaist-encircling strips 4, are rigidified in any convenient manner, asby being formed of a plurality of thicknesses of kraft paper or thelike, as was the case with the vertical strip 6, or by being formed as asheath enclosing a stiffening strip, as was the case with thewaist-encircling strips 4. The free ends of the hip-encircling strips 8are provided with adjustable length securing means such as strings 22',the combined lengths of the hip strips 8 being somewhat less than thenormal expected hip girth, engagement of the strings 22 causing thestrips 8 to fit snugly about the hips of the wearer in the same manneras was the case with the waist strips 4 previously described.

Cooperable adjustable length securing means, such as the strings 26, aresecured to the waist strips 4 and the hip strips 8 respectively and areadapted to engage with one another so as to permit some adjustment ofthe vertical spacing between said strips 4 and 8 in order to conform tothe shape of the body of the user, and so as to ensure that the hipstrips 8 are held level with respect to of the torso of the wearer, fromthe waist down. The upper framework part disclosed in the upper half ofFig. 1, either alone or in combination with the supplemental frameworkshown in Figs. 2 and 3, is used to facilitate construction of a dressform corresponding to the contour of the upper portion of the torso ofan individual, from the waist to the neck. The upper framework partshown in the upper ialf of Fig. l is defined by a pair of substantiallyL-shaped sections generally designated 28 and 23, each of those sectionscomprising a horizontal strip 59 and a vertical strip 32 connectedthereto. The construction of each of the strips 3 and 32 is here shownas similar to that of the vertical strips 6 in the lower frameworksections 2 and 2. The tapes 14 in the horizontal strips 30 carry snapfastener elements 16 adapted to with the snap fastener elements 16carried by the wt st strips 4. The tapes 14 carried by the verticalstrips 32 carry snap fastener elements 16 cooperating with the elements16 on the strips 4. Neck-encircling means, in the form of a string orthe like 34, is secured to at least one of the vertical strips 32.

Fig. 2 discloses an armscye comprising a curved strip 36 adapted to fitwithin the armpit of the individual and completely or partially encirclethe shoulder, strings 38 or other adjustable length securing devicesextending from the ends of the strip 36 and adapted to be securedtogether on the top of the shoulder of the individual. A rigidifyingvertical strip 40 depends centrally from the strip 36. Both strips 36and 40 are provided with tabs 2t; extending away from the shoulder andto both sides of the strip 40. As here specifically disclosed the string33 passes completely through the strip 36, thus serving in part torigidity that strip.

The framework part shown in Fig. 3 comprises a neckencircling strip 42to the free ends of which adjustable length securing means such as thestrings 44 are secured. A rigidifying vertical strip 46 depends from theneck strip 4-2, and both strips are provided with tabs 20 extendinginwardly therefrom with respect to the framework section.

Different rigidifying structures are employed in various of the stripsabove described. In some cases, as with the strips 4, individualrigidifying strips 12 are employed. in other cases, as with the strips6, 3t! and 32, the tapes 14 which carry the cooperating separableconnector elements help to rigidify the strips. The strip 36 isrigidified partially by means of the string 33. Most of the strips arerigidified through the use of a plurality of layers of ma terialadhesively secured together. Clearly other methods of rigidificationcould be used, and the rigidifying means employed for one strip could beused in any other strip.

To construct a dress form using the frameworks of Figs. 1, 2 and 3, anindividual may first cover her body with a sheet 48 of gauze or the like(See Fig. 4), and it is preferred that suitable foundation garments beworn under the gauze 48 in order for the form to correspond to the shapeof the individual when she will be wearing a dress. The gauze sheet 48need not constitute part of the completed dress form and preferably isutilized only for protection of the body during the construction of thedress form.

The next step, as shown in Fig. 5, is to secure the foundation of Fig. lin place. The strips 3% are secured to the strips 4, the vertical strips32 and 6 are secured together, the strips 4- are caused to encircle thewaist, the strings 22 are tied so that strips 4 accurately conform tothe waist, the alignment of the hip strips 8 is adjusted by means of thestrings 26, the hip strips 8 are caused to snugly encircle the hipsthrough engagement of the strings 22', and the vertical strips 32 areheld in position centrally of the upper portion of the body by tying thestrings 34 around the neck. If only a girdle form is to be constructed,as is usually the case initially, the framework sections 28 and 28' areomitted.

It will be noted that once the strings 22, 22 and 26 everyone have beenengaged and adjusted, the framework is accurately fitted to the Waistand hips of the wearer. This framework can be removed at any time merelyby disengaging the fastener elements 16 on the strips '5, and theframework may be replaced in position at any time by wrapping it aroundthe body and re-engaging the fastener elements 16 and 26, and thiswithout in any way dislocating the adjustment of the strips 4 and 8. inorder to assist in resecuring the framework to the body, lacing orstrings Sti are provided on the strips 4 and near the strips 6. Kncttingand pulling those strings together will cause the vertical strips 6 toapproach one another and thus facilitate engagement of the fastenerelements 16 on opposed strips 6.

As may be seen in Fig. 8, the form itself is constructed by pasting aseries of small strips 51 of kraft paper or the like to one another andto the frame work strips in a progressively overlapping manner. The tabs2% on the various strips facilitate this procedure. in order to producea form of suflicient rigidity, several thicknesses of strips 51 shouldbe employed. It will be noted that it is not necessary to cover thestrips 4, e and d themselves except along their edges and over any gapsbetween the free ends of the strips 4 and 3 respectively which may occurat the back of the individual.

Since the overlapping paper strips 51 are secured primarily to oneanother and to the fra ework strips, and may readily be separated fromthe gauze sheet 43, it is possible to remove the framework with theoverlapping strips 51 attached no matter in what stage of completion thedress form may be, and without adversely affecting the adjustment of theframework and the conformity of the overlapping strips 51 to theparticular contours of the body.

The form for the upper portion of the body is similarly constructed. Itmay be constructed entirely independently of the lower girdle-like formor pattern if desired, but will be here described as made at the sametime as said lower form. The framework sections 23 and 2.3, with thestrips 32 secured to one another, is first placed in position byengaging the strips 3% with the strips 4 and by tying the strings 34around the neck. The armscye strips 3e are placed in position by tyingthe strings 33 over the shoulder. The neck-encircling strip 42 is tiedin front by means of the strings 4 the strip 46 extending down the backof the wearer. The body of the form itself is con structed by using aplurality of layers of overlapping and adhesively connected strips 51,as was the case with the girdle section.

When the form has been entirely completed, that is to say, when the bodyof the wearer has been entirely covered with the overlapping paperstrips 51, the form is removed from the body. This can be done merely byseparating the vertical strips 32 and 6 and removing the form as thoughit were a coat, stripping it from the gauze sheet 48. When, asspecifically shown in Pig. 9, the form includes shoulder caps, the frontportions of the upper section of the form should be slit at 52 in orderto facilitate removal of the upper section of the form withoutdistortion thereof, that slit 52 extending from one armpit across theupper portion of the body to the strip 3-2 and then upwardly to the neckalongside the strip 32 and through the strip 42. After the completedform has been removed, this slit 52 is recovered by overlapping stripsof paper (See Fig. l0). Thereafter the inside of the form is coveredwith one or more layers of overlapping adhesiyely secured strips 51,this further rigiditying the form and also covering the exposedadhesived surfaces of the previously applied strips fill.

Not only is the completed form removable from the body, but the formitself is readily separable into upper and lower sections, this beingaccomplished by separating the fasteners 16 carried respectively by thestrips 4 and and by cutting whatever portion of the overlapped paperstrips 51 may be necessary at the rear of the form where the ends of thestrips 4 and 30 do not meet. The two form sections, to Wit, a girdlesection generally designated 54 and an upper torso section generallydesignated 56, may be stored in nested condition, as shown in Fig. 11,thus taking up but a minimal amount of space. Nesting of the twosections may be facilitated by opening the vertical seam in the uppersection 56 defined by the strips 32, and then slightly rolling the uppersection 56 to permit it to be received inside the lower section 54.

The completed dress form will, through the framework originally employedin its construction, be well rigidified at crucial areas thereof andconsequently will retain its shape and resist abuse. The girdle-likelower section 54 will be reinforced along practically all of its upperand lower edges by means of strips 4 and 8 respectively, and will bereinforced down the front middle, Where it is separable, by the verticalstrips 6. The upper section 56 of the form will be strengthened andprotected at its lower edge by the strips 31 at the neck by the strip42, and at the armpits by the strips 36. A substantial portion of therear center of the upper form section 56 will be rigidified by the strip46, and the strips 40 will reinforce the upper form section 56 over asubstantial length and area between the armpits and the waist. Inaddition, the strips 32 will reinforce substantially the entire frontcenter of the form section 56 along its separable scam edges.

In order to mount the form in a convenient manner, the inside of thegirdle section 54, at a point below the waistline, is provided with aseries of separable snap fas teners 53, held in place, for example, bysewing a tape carrying such elements on the inner surface of the girdleform 5%. The pedestal member on which the form is mounted is heredisclosed as comprising a cardboard tube having cooperating separablefastener elements 62 at the top thereof and having holes 64 at thebottom thereof through which strings 66 on a base plate 68 are adaptedto be passed. The free edges of the tube are provided with detachablefastening elements 70 so that the tube may be rolled up into a smallspace for storage, as viewed in Fig. 11, or expanded to tubular shapefor supporting purposes, as shown in Fig. 10, and held in expandedtubular shape by engagement between the fastoner elements 76?.

The advantages of the framework and dress form struc' ture of thepresent invention insofar as ease of adjustment, removability andreplacement of the form during construction and storage of the completedform are concerned, have been set forth above. It may be here furthernoted, however, that the vertical seam in the form as defined by thevertical strips 32 facilitates use of the form with dresses which arealmost completed. Such dresses may be placed over the form withoutdistorting the dress or the form by unsnapping the strips 32, contractimthe shoulders of the form, passing the dress over the form in itscontracted condition, and then resecuring the strips 32 to one another.

While conventional snap fasteners have been here disclosed asincorporated into the framework of the form of the present invention, itwill be apparent that any type of separable fastener, such as hooks andeyes, slide fasteners and the like, could be employed. While this speciecation relates specifically to the production of forms or patternssimulating the configuration of a human torso, it will be apparent thatthe invention in its broader aspects has to do with the simulation ofother body parts, such as the head, and the simulation of objects otherthan human bodies. While but a single embodiment of the presentinvention has been here specifically disclosed, it will be apparent thatmany variations may be made in the details thereof without departingfrom the spirit of the invention as defined in the following claims.

1 claim:

1. A universal framework for an individually shaped dress formcomprising a two-piece waist-encircling strip, a pair of vertical stripsdepending from adjacent ends of 7 said pieces, and a two-piecehip-encircling strip, each of said hip-strip pieces extending from oneof said vertical strips in the same general direction as and verticallyspaced from said waist-strip pieces, adjustable length securing means atthe free ends of said Waist-strip and hipstrip pieces for adjustablysecuring together the free ends of said respective strips so as to causethem to snugly encircle the waist and hips respectively of a body, andseparable securing devices along said vertical strips, whereby saidframework, in two sections each defined by a vertical strip withattached waistand hip-strip pieces, may be releasahly secured in placearound the body and removed therefrom without altering the setting ofsaid adjustable length securing means.

2. In the framework of claim 1, cooperable adjustable length securingmeans fastened to a waist-strip piece and an opposed hip-strip piece,whereby the vertical spacing between said strips may be adjusted.

3. In the framework of claim 1, cooperable tensioning devices at opposedpoints on said vertical strips, whereby said strips may be drawntogether about a body so as to facilitate engagement of said separablesecuring devices.

4. In the framework of claim 1, tabs spaced along the length of saidstrips and projecting inwardly with respect to said framework sections,so as to facilitate the adhesive attachment thereto of the body of saiddress form.

5. The framework of claim 1, in which said strips comprise a sheath ofcomparatively flimsy material to which the dress form body may beadhesively secured, and a stiffening element of more substantialmaterial in said sheath.

6. The framework of claim 1, in which at least one of said stripscomprises a sheath of comparatively flimsy material to which the dressform body may be adhesive- 1y secured, a stifiening element in saidsheath, and a tape also in said sheath and carrying said separablesecuring devices, said sheath being apertured to permit access to saidseparable securing devices.

7. In combination with the framework of claim 1, an additional frameworkdefined by a pair of substantially L-shaped members each comprising ahorizontal and a vertical strip, neck-encircling means secured to atleast one of said vertical strips, separable cooperating securingdevices along said vertical strips, and separable cooperating securingdevices along said horizontal strips and the waist-strip pieces of theframework of claim 1.

8. In combination with the composite framework of claim 7, asupplemental framework defined by a neckencircling strip havingadjustable length securing means at the ends thereof for adjustablysecuring together said ends as said strip encircles a neck.

9. In combination with the composite framework of claim 7, asupplemental framework defined by a neck-encircling strip havingadjustable length securing means at the ends thereof for adjustablysecuring together said ends as said strip encircles a neck, and avertical strip depending from said neck-encircling strip and adapted toextend down the back of a body when said neck-encircling strip issecured in place.

10. In combination with the composite framework of claim 7, supplementalframework defined by a pair of arn1pitencircling strips havingadjustable length securing means at the ends thereof for adjustablysecuring together said ends-as said strip encircles an armpit andshoulder.

11. In combination with the composite framework of claim 7, supplementalframework defined by a pair of armpit-encircling strips havingadjustable length securing means at the ends thereof for adjustablysecuring together said ends as said strip encircles an armpit andshoulder, and a vertical strip depending from said arm pit-encirclingstrip and adapted to extend from said armpit toward the waist of a body.

12. A universal framework for an individually shaped dress formcomprising a two-piece waist-encircling strip, a pair of vertical stripsdepending from adjacent ends of said waist-strip pieces, adjustablelength securing means at the free ends of said waist-strip pieces foradjustably securing together their free ends so as to cause said stripto snugly encircle the waist of a body, and separable securing devicesalong said vertical strips, whereby said framework, in two sections eachdefined by a vertical piece and attached strip piece, may be releasablysecured in place around the body and removed therefrom without alteringthe setting of said adjustable length securing means.

13. The framework of claim 12, in which at least one of said stripscomprises a sheath of comparatively flimsy material to which the dressform body may be adhesively secured, a stiffening element of moresubstantial material in said sheath, and a tape also in said sheath andcarrying said separable securing devices, said sheath being apertured topermit access to said separable securing devices.

14. In combination with the framework of claim 12, an additionalframework defined by a pair of substantially L-shaped members eachcomprising a horizontal and a vertical strip, neck-encircling meanssecured to at least one of said vertical strips, separable cooperatingsecuring devices along said vertical strips, and separable cooperatingsecuring devices along said horizontal strips and the waist-strip piecesof the framework of claim 12, and a supplemental framework defined by aneck-encircling strip having adjustable length securing means at theends thereof for adjustably securing together said ends as said stripencircles a neck.

15. In combination with the framework of claim 12, an additional.framework defined by a pair of substantially L-shaped members eachcomprising a horizontal and a vertical strip, neck-encircling meanssecured to at least one of said vertical strips, separable cooperatingsecuring devices along said vertical strips, and separable cooperatingsecuring devices along said horizontal strips and the waist-strip piecesof the framework of claim 12, and supplemental framework defined by apair of armpit-encircling strips having adjustable length securing meansat the ends thereof for adjustably securing together said ends as saidstrip encircles an armpit and shoulder.

References Cited in the file of this patent Shalda Feb. 17, 1953

